A classic example of Pear Tree Rust - a fairly common fungal infection. The RHS's website has lots of useful info on this infection available here. It is rarely fatal to trees, though it can reduce fruit yield. What is unusual about Pear Rust is that the fungus attacks both Pears and Junipers. It actually needs both plants in order to complete its life cycle. Does the customer have infected Juniper conifers nearby? It is advisable to remove and destroy infected leaves. There is also more advice on recommended control of the disease on the page above.
The fungicide difenoconazole Westland Plant Rescue Fungus Control concentrate is labelled to control pear rust. Rose bushes often have a bad reputation for being difficult to grow. Over the last couple of decades however, there have been many breeding advances which have greatly improved performance. We have chosen proven-varieties that are guaranteed to perform in your garden, have a high resistance to common diseases, but most of all have brilliant flowering displays and produce superb fragrances.
We sell a wide range of rose bushes, including bush-roses, climbers, ground-cover roses, and standard roses. There is a wide variety of colours, scents and other characteristics - full details on each relevant product page. Roses are supplied either in pots, or as trimmed, dormant bare-root bushes between October and April.
In both cases they are ready for planting on receipt. Roses should be planted about You should prune roses annually in early spring, before the new growth starts. Raspberries and blackberries are very easy to grow in different varieties of soil and partial sun, even in small spaces. They are low maintenance yet highly rewarding.
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We are associated with Europe's largest and leading raspberry plants "canes" producer. The plants are grown on the sandy fens of Norfolk and are the best quality you can buy! Plant 60cm 2ft in rows, along walls or fences, or in beds, where further support from posts may be needed. Water in well after planting.
Cut down any raspberry canes that have already fruited in November, leaving long canes for the following year's bigger crops. Summer-fruiting varieties crop in July on last year's growth, so when their season finishes cut down the fruiting stems. New shoots will soon emerge, and next year's fruit will be produced on these one-year-old, ripened canes - do not cut these down, as they will provide the fruit next season.
If you would appreciate fresh raspberries over a long season, grow at least one summer and one autumn variety of raspberry bushes. Spring is the best time to prune blackberry bushes. The canes usually grow one season; produce fruit the next season, then die. Once the canes have fruited and died, they should be cut back to just above the ground. The majority of trees and shrubs that we supply are deciduous - the leaves fade and drop off in autumn, and re-grow again in spring. Between October and March, they are most likely to be dormant and can look a little like "dead twigs" - don't worry, this is completely normal.
Potted plants can be planted all-year-round and if you can't plant straight away they can be left in their pots for as long as you need. You're fine to keep them outside as long as they are well-watered and kept frost free. Plant the same as you would bare-root plants - instead of digging a hole to fit the roots, dig one to fit the pot! Bulbs are some of the easiest and most rewarding plants to grow and gardeners of all ability levels can produce stunning displays - in fact, once planted they pretty much look after themselves!
We sell a wide range of bulbs throughout the year:. Your bulbs will be packed in perforated polythene bags.derpocompy.gq
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If you cannot plant them straight away, keep them in a cool, dark, moisture-free place and they'll keep for a few weeks with no problems. If they've been delayed in the post, don't worry, as they are fine in transit for a number of days. Whether planting into pots, containers or straight into the ground, there is a simple rule of thumb for planting - plant bulbs at twice the depth of the height of each one, and approx.
They are fine to plant even if a little green growth is starting to appear. They'll just need a good watering when you plant them, and then only when the soil is dry. Whilst all the energy that a bulb needs in order to grow is stored in the bulb itself, they will do better if you feed them when in active green growth.
Leave them in the ground once they die back - they'll come back bigger and better each year. We sell Snowdrops, Bluebells and Aconites "in the green". When the plants are in leaf - and later may have flowered and are dying back - they are lifted from the ground, with the leaves still on the plants. They can look yellowing or dying on receipt, which is fine - they will just die back to the bulb. If lifted, packed, sent, and re-planted in a short amount of time, the plants will thrive in their new position.
These bulbs establish much quicker than dry bulbs, so you can expect full flowering displays the season after planting.
We sell a wide range of basket and bedding plants in four different sizes, as detailed below and on our website for each product. The vast majority of plugs will be annual plants to create seasonal displays in flower beds, borders, hanging baskets and pots. These can loosely be split into "summer" or "winter" categories, but in truth, many may flower for six months or longer. For mixed collections, the blister packs or "mini-greenhouses" will have a label on the outside, listing the individual varieties inside, and referring to the embossed "A, B, C" etc. Unpack plugs immediately, and stand them in water for an hour.
They may be slightly dry, or look a bit yellow - this is quite normal after they've been in the dark for a couple of days and they'll quickly recover. Put them somewhere light, airy and not too hot or cold, to help them acclimatise to life outside the greenhouse. When potting on "pricking out" , handle plugs carefully - even though they're tougher than they look! For small plug plants in trays, push them out using a suitable small instrument through the hole in the bottom of each cell - e.
Pot on using our Windowsill Planters or Shuttle Trays with 9cm Pots , using good multipurpose compost like our Premium Professional mix. This will allow them to grow healthy rootballs before you plant them out. Give your plants a good water initially, then only when the top compost starts to dry. They don't like to be left in standing water.
If planting directly in to flower beds, prepare the ground well, removing weeds and digging in some compost or well-rotted manure if your soil is not already rich. For beds, borders and containers, plant your plugs approx. We recommend using our Easy Fill Hanging Baskets for the very best hanging basket displays. A full video planting guide is available through the Garden Gargains YouTube channel. Dead-head when flowers fade to encourage more flowers. Important: Only plant out spring bedding after the last frosts - e. Easy Fill Hanging Baskets create instant impact from the moment they are planted up!
We have a wide range of plants that are perfect for planting into Easy Fills throughout the year. A 15" Easy Fill basket has room for 17 plants - one in each hole and 5 plants, evenly spaced on top. The smaller 12" baskets hold 9 - one in each hole and 4 on top. Any gardener will be able to tell you how satisfying it is to be able to dig up and eat your own home grown veg.
Potatoes are one of the most common vegetables to grow. They are easy to plant and take very little effort to look after and therefore it is easy to get a good crop of them. Our Patio Potato Kits are a cheap and fuss-free way to get reliable crops of fresh potatoes from your own garden, in the minimum of space. They include pots, fertiliser and different varieties of seed potato.
We also sell separate packs of seed potatoes. On receipt of your seed potatoes, stand them in an egg box in a cool, light room, so they can begin shooting or "chitting" as it is known. Leave them for weeks, and short dark shoots will emerge from the eyes. Take care not to damage these when handling or planting. Store your pots and potato fertiliser until you plant them.
To plant using our planting kits, put 10cm of good compost on the bottom of each pot, and place 5 tubers of each variety spaced out evenly on this compost. Add a further 10cm or so of compost to cover, and firm down, adding a sprinkling of potato fertiliser as well.
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If you are planting direct into garden soil, dig a trench about 20cm deep, and plant tubers in the bottom. In both cases, water in well. After a month or so, the leaves will emerge from the top of the compost.
Add sufficient compost to bury these leaves and a little more, and allow them to grow again. Repeat covering the leaves until the pots are full. Allow them to grow for a further weeks. For potatoes grown in the ground, "earth up" by covering them as the leaves grow, building up into a ridge about 15cm above ground level.
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The more stem you cover with soil, the heavier the crop will be. Water all potatoes well in dry spells when they are in leaf, as this will have a major increase in crop yield - 2 or 3 times greater yield compared with low-watering. When the leaves begin to die back, you can harvest.